All Traditional recipes Places we love Stories

The Oneglia journal

Stella

Recipes, places and stories — it all starts just outside the door.

Places6 min read

Monte Carlo on a Day Trip

From Imperia the Principality of Monaco is a little over an hour by train, changing at Ventimiglia. Place du Casino, the yacht harbour, the noon changing of the guard, the aquarium over the sea. Honest about prices, parking, dress code, and the Grand Prix that seals off the city in June.

Recipes3 min read

Stuffed anchovies

The recipe for Ponente-style stuffed anchovies: how to clean and butterfly them, the filling of breadcrumbs, egg, parmesan and marjoram, and the air-fryer trick to keep the house free of smoke.

Places2 min read

Frantoio Benza, in Dolcedo

In Dolcedo, behind Imperia, there's the Benza oil mill: Taggiasca olive oil since 1853, but also olive pâté, pitted olives and a sweet-and-sour trombette zucchini that's worth the drive. The gem for anyone who wants to see the real Ponente.

Places4 min read

Oneglia's savoury breakfasts

In Liguria breakfast is savoury: a strip of focaccia dipped into a cappuccino. It sounds like heresy, and instead it's the right way to start the day. Here's where to do it in Oneglia and across in Porto.

Places4 min read

Villa Grock, the house of the king of clowns

Above Oneglia stands a villa that looks like a child drew it with too much imagination: mascarons, theatrical staircases, a little lake with a temple in the middle. It was built by Grock, the highest-paid clown in Europe. For us, it's the place of the letters to Santa.

Recipes4 min read

Ravioli di magro

Ligurian ravioli di magro: a filling of greens and ricotta, dressed with butter and sage or with tomato. The recipe to make them, and the address to buy them fresh in Oneglia, right next to the church.