All Traditional recipes Places we love Stories

The Oneglia journal

Stella

Recipes, places and stories — it all starts just outside the door.

Places4 min read

Dalla Padella alla Brace

A Slow Food osteria in the caruggi of Oneglia, with its own vegetable garden up in Oliveto. The place for meat dishes, rabbit braised in Rossese, and a mid-August birthday I still carry with me.

Places4 min read

Valloria, the village of painted doors

Valloria, a hamlet of Prelà behind Imperia, has just over thirty residents and one hundred and sixty-seven doors painted by artists from around the world. You reach it by passing through Dolcedo, up the hairpins. And then there's the festival: «A Valloria fai baldoria», the slogan I can't get out of my head.

Places4 min read

Osteria dai Pippi, in Borgo Marina

A tiny osteria in Borgo Marina, below the Parasio. A very short menu chalked on a board, top-quality food, bread and focaccia made in house and served with the local olive oil. I don't go often, but every time it's worth it.

Places3 min read

Where to eat on land, from the osteria to the hills

There's a moment, on holiday, when you've had enough fish and you want meat, ravioli, an old olive mill at the end of a valley. Here's where I go, from an osteria in Oneglia to the villages inland.

Recipes2 min read

Trombette green tart

A savoury tart of pasta matta and trombette zucchini, the classic thing to take on a day trip. The recipe to make it at home — with the honest warning: it won't come out like Blengini's, but it'll be good.

Stories2 min read

Pigato and Vermentino, the whites of the Ponente

What Pigato and Vermentino are, why they're the whites of this coast, what to drink them with, the affinity with Imperia's focaccia. And the cellars where to buy them, with Laura Aschero above all.