All Traditional recipes Places we love Stories

The Oneglia journal

Stella

Recipes, places and stories — it all starts just outside the door.

Places5 min read

Cervo, the village of the coral fishers

Fifteen minutes from Oneglia there's Cervo: alleys climbing toward a Baroque church above the sea, the International Chamber Music Festival in summer, and below the village a little harbour where the water is the real deal.

Recipes3 min read

Brandacujun

The recipe for brandacujun: salt cod and potatoes boiled together and creamed by shaking the pot hard, with taggiasca olive oil, garlic and parsley. The dish is named after the gesture, and the gesture is everything.

Places4 min read

Triora, the village of the witches

Fifty minutes of hairpin bends from the coast and you reach Triora: a medieval village clinging to the mountain, a little grim, marked by the witch trials of the late 1500s. You come for the history and the atmosphere, but also for the dark bread and the bruzzo. Here's what to see and what to take home.

Places5 min read

Nice for a day, and the socca that tastes like home

From Oneglia, Nice is barely an hour away: train via Ventimiglia or car along the coast. Promenade des Anglais, Vieux Nice, the Cours Saleya market, the hill over the Baie des Anges. And socca, the Niçois cousin of our farinata. With honest notes on trains, parking and summer crowds.

Places4 min read

The Lovers' Walk

A footpath suspended over the rocks between the Porto Maurizio marina and Borgo Foce. Lovely early in the morning, even better in the evening. It carries the name of a twenty-year-old boy. Wear good shoes.

Stories4 min read

De Amicis, born in Oneglia

Edmondo De Amicis, the man behind Cuore, was born in Oneglia on 21 October 1846. The square that bears his name, the house that became a barracks, and a plaque on the harbour: the story of a son of Oneglia the world knows, and that home struggles to claim.