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The Oneglia journal

Stella

Recipes, places and stories — it all starts just outside the door.

Places5 min read

The Parasio, on foot and at sunset

The Parasio is the old town of Porto Maurizio: you walk it, it spirals up to the Duomo di San Maurizio, and it opens onto the sea from the Logge di Santa Chiara. Here's how to visit it, ideally at sunset, and the one spot I keep going back for.

Places1 min read

Where to buy the oil (the real one)

Good taggiasca oil isn't bought at the supermarket. You get it by the tin, from the mill: here's which ones, plus the Carli Emporium for the more commercial oil.

Stories4 min read

Oneglia and Porto Maurizio, a rivalry

Imperia hasn't always existed: it was born in 1923 by merging Oneglia and Porto Maurizio, split by the Impero stream. A century later the rivalry is still alive, and I'll tell you about it as a man from Oneglia who spent half his childhood in Porto.

Places3 min read

Monte Calvario, Imperia Seen From Above

Above Porto Maurizio there's a hill with a sanctuary, cypresses and the finest view in all of Imperia. The path up is a bit run-down, but it's worth the effort. Here's when to go and what you'll see.

Recipes4 min read

Stoccafisso all'onegliese, our stockfish stew

The recipe for stoccafisso all'onegliese, the dish that in Oneglia tastes of celebration: how to soak it, why it needs pine nuts and walnuts, and the two hours of low heat you can't skip.

Places3 min read

Bussana Vecchia, the artists' village above Sanremo

Destroyed by the earthquake of 23 February 1887 and left a ghost town for decades, Bussana Vecchia came back to life in the 1960s thanks to a community of artists who made homes among the ruins. It isn't the cheeriest spot in the western Riviera, but it's one you don't forget.